Isabella Smith

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The ‘People’ Pillar

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The ‘People’ Pillar refers to the complexity of human values and needs that impact and integrate into the function of fashion businesses. The rise of ‘Gen Z’ voices advocating for diversity, inclusion, and responsibility is calling for brands to understand their impact on societal standards. This pillar introduces the impact of western standards on the global fashion industry and the repercussions for non-eurocentric individuals.

Fig 1 – Who Are Gen Z? (Adapted from The San Diego Union-Tribune, 2020)

Gen Z encompasses “people born from 1995 to 2010” (Francis and Hoefel, 2018) and refers to the young adults and teens who are the first of a hyperconnected digital generation. Consequently, this generation experienced exposure to countless cultures and injustices, leading to a collective respect for diversity and social change. Francis and Hoefel (2018) discuss how these influences have led to several behaviours within Gen Z; a value of individuality, increased mobilisation for social movements, a belief in the “efficacy of dialogue to solve conflicts,” and an analytic approach to brand usage.

With 46.8% of Gen Z consumers “abandoning a purchase that did not align with their values” (Drapers, 2022), there is evidence of how these behaviours are impacting the consumption of fashion by this generation. Drapers 2022 report proposes that for brands to be successful in attracting Gen Z, they need to utilise the correct platforms to communicate efforts towards diversity, sustainability and ethical practice within the company. Instagram would be the most efficient platform as 61% of Gen Z utilise this for fashion inspiration (Drapers, 2022). Therefore transparency here would have the furthest reach and attract Gen Z customers.

Fig 2 – Bar chart presenting social media use by Gen Z. (Adapted from Drapers, 2022).
Fig 3 – Fashion for little people (Auf Augenhoehe, 2022)

In response to diversity and representation, Tommy Hilfiger launched the Fashion Frontier Challenge in 2018. It aims to “accelerate the work of the world’s most innovative and impactful fashion startups” (Tommy Hilfiger, 2022) to produce inclusive fashion solutions. The winner receives €200,000 to enable progression within their business venture. Past winner, Auf Augenhoehe, is a brand creating clothes for those with dwarfism, encouraging inclusivity of disabilities within fashion (Tommy Hilfiger, 2022). Tommy Hilfiger displays how a brand can impact representation within the industry beyond its clothing lines.

Competent interpersonal skills are critical to creating products and campaigns that respect multicultural values whilst enabling brand success. Resilience is a key skill in the fashion business, as it means that a brand can adapt its approach, when criticised, to show progression when poor decisions are made. As a result, younger consumers are more likely to purchase from these companies as “Gen Zers—are tolerant of brands when they make mistakes if the mistakes are corrected” (Francis and Hoefel, 2018). Therefore showing awareness of mistakes and providing solutions for them is important for the success of a fashion brand.

References:

Fig 1 – Adapted from, The San Diego Union-Tribune (2020) ‘What is Generation Z?’. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kD-UfRQd2co (Downloaded: 16 October 2022).

Fig 2 – Adapted from, Moran, G. (2022) ‘Gen Z and Millennials 2022’. Drapers. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed: 14 October 2022).

Fig 3 – Auf Augenhoehe (2022) Tights Sheer 20DEN. Available at: https://www.aufaugenhoehe.design/en/products/auf-augenhoehe-20-den-feinstrumpfhose-x-glamory (Accessed: 16 October 2022).

Francis, T. and Hoefel, F. (2018) ‘True Gen: Generation Z and its implications for companies’. McKinsey & Company, 12. pp. 2-9. Available at: http://www.drthomaswu.com/uicmpaccsmac/Gen%20Z.pdf (Accessed: 15 October 2022).

Moran, G. (2022) ‘Gen Z and Millennials 2022’. Drapers. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed: 14 October 2022).

Tommy Hilfiger (2022) Fashion Frontier Challenge. Available at: https://responsibility.pvh.com/tommy/fashion-frontier-challenge/ (Accessed: 15 October 2022).

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The Planet Pillar

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Fig 1 – Circular Economies (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2018)

Within the parameters of the fashion industry, the planet pillar refers to the environmental sustainability of the production, consumption and waste practices used within the fashion value chain. Holding ‘Planet’ as a core value within the fashion industry means taking care of the environment, resources and ecosystems whilst continuing to meet the needs of the industry. For fashion, the planet pillar means providing an understanding of the impacts the industry may have, and playing a proactive role in mitigating impacts through shifting towards a circular economy and prioritising sustainable practices.

The concept of a circular economy is a proposed alternative to the current linear model, with circularity being described “as a system where all materials are infinitely recyclable or biodegradable” (Gwilt, 2014, p.10). It aims to reduce the loss of material from the fashion system and increase the lifecycle of products. The last decade has seen an increased interest in fashion practices that support this circular economy, in particular, the approach of adaptability which seeks to increase the use of a garment through modification to slow consumption and production patterns. Fletcher and Grose (2012) proposes the use of repair services as an attempt to adapt clothing and “return garments back to good condition”(p.100) thus allowing garments to begin a new lifecycle and prevent addition to the amassing amount of fashion waste.

Circularity is of interest to the fashion industry as it is a mechanism that sustains fashion resources for future generations. A definition for ‘sustainability’ was first widely attempted by the United Nations Brundtland Commission (1987), which described sustainability as “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs”. This is reflected in Condé Nasts’ definition of sustainable fashion which depicts sustainability as a state that can be achieved by changing the methods of thinking, designing, producing and wearing clothes to honour the needs of the future and the present (Condenast, 2020).

In regards to achieving a sustainable planet, the United Nations developed the seventeen sustainable development goals which cover a range of economic, social and environmental sustainability targets. In the case of the fashion industry, the United Nations Alliance for Sustainable Fashion was developed “to lead the fashion industry to become a driver for the implementation of the SDGs” (Gwilt, 2014, p.13). One Sustainable Development Goal that is significant to the function of the fashion industry is Goal 14 ‘Life Below Water’. During machine washing, synthetic fabrics produce microfibers discharged via wastewater into natural water sources, these are then “ingested by fish and molluscs” (Thomas, 2019, p.8) resulting in harm to aquatic life. Therefore for this SDG to be achieved changes need to be made within the processing practices and use of garments by both the producers and consumers. This highlights the impact that changes made to meet the Sustainable Development Goals may have on the fashion industry.

References:

Brundtland, G. (1987) Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development: Our Common Future. New York: Oxford University Press.

Condé Nast (2020) The Sustainable Fashion Glossary. Available at: https://www.condenast.com/glossary/key-elements-of-fashion-and-sustainability (Accessed: 8 October 2022).

Fletcher, K. & Grose, L. (2012) Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change. London: Laurence King Publishing

Gwilt, A. (2020) A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. London: Fairchild Books.

Thomas, D. (2019) Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes. New York: Penguin Press. 

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Stella McCartney: A Favourite Fashion Brand

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Since its birth in 2001 by a designer of the same name, ‘Stella McCartney’ has been a pioneer in sustainable luxury fashion. As a brand that holds its values of ethicality and accessibility at the core of all its products and ventures, it finds the balance between contemporary couture and social responsibility.

The Future First

Stella McCartney proved its commitment to improving the fashion industry from the beginning, through its advocacy against real fur, feathers, and skin of any kind, this policy has grown into an exploration of upcoming practices within the fashion community, that has allowed for a more sustainable approach to design.

Beyond its design for clothes, the brand continues to apply its principles to every aspect of the business. From transparent and traceable supply chains and ecologically powered stores to the production of an Environmental Profit and Loss report each year, Stella McCartney can only be described as showing a firm awareness of its impact as a global brand.

Using its power as a global brand it provides voices and platforms to smaller organisations providing vital work within the climate crisis. In 2017 Stella McCartney collaborated with the marine protection organisation Parley which transforms plastic ocean waste into thread and yarn, this produced the Adidas by Stella McCartney Parley UltraBOOST shoe, the first of its kind. Through the brand’s ability to adapt and integrate the ever-changing technological innovations within fashion, it was able to partner with Bolt Threads, a bio-fabrication company creating faux leather from mycelium. This resulted in the production of the world’s first vegan Mylo leather garments and became the core material for the best-selling Falabella bag. Stella McCartney’s choice to work alongside innovative start-ups allows for the further development of new sustainable design practices which may be critical to the future of fashion.

Change the History

Today, the brands SS23 show posed the question ‘How can we change the history?’ and in a Vogue interview creative director and founder Stella McCartney elaborates on this query, stating “I want to look back at my history and redefine where I started and where I am now and what the next Stella looks like.” As a brand, Stella McCartney continues to embrace its history by revisiting its past styles and practices with a new sustainable approach, showing its awareness of past mistakes and willingness to change for future needs, awarding itself ‘A Favourite Fashion Brand’.

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