Zachary Scarr

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Purpose

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‘Purpose’ is the fourth and final pillar within the fashion industry. ‘Purpose’ is defined within the industry as opening opportunities for everybody, which automatically becomes a larger part of our lives. Simply put, purpose asks the industry to look at its plans and intentions and how they will impact its actions?

Within ‘purpose’ you find ‘The brand philosophy’ which is “The set of values, code of ethics, and principles” (Marketing91, 2022) and is extremely important when communicating the fashion brand’s message to its customers as it accumulates more sales. A key factor of having a brand philosophy is having a unique selling point as it allows brands to have a distinctive identity within the industry that will enable the brand to stand out. Furthermore, having a story, mission and values will enable customers to relate to the brand which would make it more appealing to a wider range of consumers. 

‘Sustainability’ is a huge term within the fashion industry today, Brands like Asos are marketing their sustainable journey as “Responsible Fashion” where they define their missions and values for becoming a sustainable brand. Their aim is to attract a larger audience such as Gen Z, who are extremely passionate and informed about the sustainability impacts that fashion can have on the environment and the role they play as consumers within their own sustainability choices. 

Fashion brands communicate their purpose to Gen Z using social platforms such as Tiktok and Instagram targeting the large demographic of daily users. “62% of Generation Z social media users claim to use Instagram daily” (Earthweb, 2022) Influencer marketing is a crucial strategy within the fashion industry. A mixture of old and new marketing tools takes the idea of celebrity endorsement and places it into today’s content-driven marketing world. “About 80% of Gen Z social media users follow at least one influencer” (Earthweb, 2022). Influencers help brands to build a relationship with their customers, through this brand will be able to communicate their products to a larger audience. Ryanair is one of many brands that use TikTok and social media platforms. With multiple humorous videos going viral they have increased their engagement and accumulated more than one million followers. Similarly, Luxury brands use influencers in a more strategic way. Louis Vuitton and Prada use social media influencers such as Emma Chamberlain and Charli D’Amelio to promote their brands by inviting them to fittings and shows during fashion month and asking them to film and post on their large platforms to communicate the brand’s purpose to a large Gen Z audience. 

Emma Chamberlain at the “200 Trucks, 200 Visonaries Exhibition (WWD, 2022)

‘Purpose’ within the fashion industry is evolving and changes daily as media morphs and grows. Marketing departments are always looking for the newest and freshest ‘purpose’.

References:

Bhasin, H. (2019) What is Brand Philosophy? importance of having a brand philosophy, Marketing91. Available at: https://www.marketing91.com/brand-philosophy/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

calamonte, jose (2022) Responsible fashion: Our journey to a more sustainable future, ASOS. asos. Available at: https://www.asos.com/responsible-fashion/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

Geyser, W. (2022) What is influencer marketing? – the ultimate guide for 2022, Influencer Marketing Hub. Marketing Hub . Available at: https://influencermarketinghub.com/influencer-marketing/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

Hillier, L. (2021) 10 brands getting creative with content on TikTok, Econsultancy. Available at: https://econsultancy.com/10-brands-getting-creative-with-content-on-tiktok/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

Nordstrom, L. (2022) A day at Louis Vuitton with Emma Chamberlain, WWD. Vouge . Available at: https://wwd.com/eye/people/emma-chamberlain-louis-vuitton-paris-fashion-week-diary-1235129503/?sub_action=logged_in (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

Widjojo, C. (2022) Emma Chamberlain channels modern mod girl at Louis Vuitton’s ‘200 trunks, 200 visionaries: The exhibition’, WWD. Fairchild publishing . Available at: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/emma-chamberlain-louis-vuitton-200-trunks-200-visionaries-exhibit-1235265471/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

Wise, J. (2022) Gen Z Social Media Usage Statistics 2022: The latest trends, Facts & Data, EarthWeb. Jason wise. Available at: https://earthweb.com/gen-z-social-media-usage-statistics/ (Accessed: October 30, 2022).

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Profit

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‘Profit’ is the third pillar within the fashion business school. Profit is defined as “money that is earned in trade or business after paying the costs of producing and selling goods and services”(Cambridge dictionary,2022). Profit and the economy are a series of systems through which humanity provisions the requirements of life and society and therefore without it the industry would collapse.

Fashion is one of the key industries, which contributes to a large amount of the overall global economy. The fashion industry has no specific size or scale but can be measured through its value and prices. “If it was ranked alongside individual countries, the global fashion industry would represent the 17th largest economy in the world” (McKinsey, 2017). In 2021 before the pandemic, the revenue of the fashion industry was estimated between $1.7 trillion and $2.5 trillion (Fashion United, 2022). As the industry is so fast-paced as well as the fast fashion movement is amplified it’s difficult to measure the true size of the fashion industry.

Within the fashion industry, there are multiple sectors both performing well and extremely poorly. Due to today’s climate manufacturing is performing badly. Brands are mass-producing garments made from cheap materials as well as being constructed poorly. Fabrics such as polyester, and oil-based synthetics have been bleached, dyed and dipped in chemical baths which causes a large negative impact on the environment. Marketing is a sector performing well as it can empower brands to stay longer and stronger in the minds of their buyers. Digital marketing allows brands to reach their target market as well as have a strategy to increase their reach and audience.

During uncertain economic times, brands will need to change their ways of thinking to remain competitive. Brands can often underestimate the power of marketing and the importance of having a unique strong selling point. During Covid 19 brands had to shift from focusing on profit and growth and invest in the power of marketing and social media. As it was an uncertain time it was vital to be present and interact with your customers to increase your engagement.

Figure 1 : Ikea x OffWhite collection (Highsnobiety, 2022)

Virgil Abloh is an American Fashion designer and entrepreneur and founder of OFFWHITE. Describing his brand as “the grey area between black and white as the colour off-white” (Varsity, 2022). After founding Off White in 2013 he later did a collection with Ikea to create the IKEA x OFFWHITE collection. The collaboration incorporated IKEA’s well known furniture and Virgil’s designs and was created to attract a younger audience. Similarly, Charles Frederick Worth Known as the “Father of haute couture” (The Met, 2004) dominated Parisian fashion as he focused on art and creativity over commerce, making him the first creative director to define the gap between creativity and commerce.

References:

Amed , I. (2022) State of Fashion 2022: An uneven recovery and new frontiers, McKinsey & Company. McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Cambridge University Press (2005) Profit, Cambridge Dictionary. cambridge . Available at: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/profit (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Environmental sustainability in the fashion industry (2021) Geneva Environment Network. United Nations . Available at: https://www.genevaenvironmentnetwork.org/resources/updates/sustainable-fashion/ (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Global Fashion Industry Statistics (2020) FashionUnited. fashion united . Available at: https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Krick, J. (2004) Charles Frederick Worth , Metmuseum.org. Metropolitan museum of art . Available at: https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/wrth/hd_wrth.htm (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

McGarrigle, W.B.L. and Editor, L.M.G.N.& C. (2019) Everything you need to know for the virgil abloh x IKEA drop Today, Highsnobiety. Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/virgil-abloh-ikea-collaboration-best-look/#:~:text=IKEA%20x%20OFF%2DWHITE%20release,November%201%20at%2010%20a.m (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Morris, E. and Morris, E. (2022) The Life and Death of Virgil Abloh, Varsity Online. Available at: https://www.varsity.co.uk/fashion/22623 (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Smith, P. (2022) Topic: Apparel market worldwide, Statista. stroer media . Available at: https://www.statista.com/topics/5091/apparel-market-worldwide/ (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

Taitler, R. (2020) Mass production in the fashion industry: How quantity outweighs quality and leads to waste and financial loss – 3D insider: Optitex blog, 3D Insider | Optitex Blog. Available at: https://3dinsider.optitex.com/fashion-quantity-outweighs-quality/ (Accessed: October 24, 2022).

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People

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The phrase ‘People’ is one of the four pillars discussed within the fashion industry. People use fashion to show their true character and express who they are, “Fashion can change and shape lives through its connection to us all” (Corner, 2022) Generation Z are an example of this, following fashion trends influenced by social media and accessing styles and shops using the internet.

Gen Z is the generation born between 1995-2012 they are excellent multitaskers, problem solvers and creative thinkers. “Gen Z in particular differ from the generations of shoppers before them: they are the first to grow up as digital natives – surrounded by technology and the internet for their entire lives” (Moran, 2022). Due to this, their minds can change quickly. Therefore, if a brand doesn’t support or follow its views in society, it will stop supporting brands. They care more about the environmental and economic climates. Brands should monitor Gen Z shoppers. As they age their shopping habits, likes and dislikes will change, Brands will need to react and diversify, they will need to watch how they influence today’s younger shoppers (Moran, 2022).

Gen Z consumers are concerned with both social and environmental causes. Brands should use the power of social media when it comes to promoting their products as Gen Z are always online. “50.3% of tik-tok users are Gen Z and 25.7% are millennials” (Moran, 2022). Brands are also showing signs of getting “woke” a phrase defined as “alert to injustice in society” (Balchandani, 2022) which is popularised on social media. Brands such as Nike and Levi’s are taking this onboard. Levi’s is supporting a campaign against gun violence, which would attract Gen Z to shop for their products (Balchandani, 2022).

Furthermore, to attract Gen Z, there should be diversity within a brand. Savage X Fenty is a brand that disrupted the fashion industry and refined the term sexy owned by Rihanna. The brand celebrates fearlessness, confidence and inclusivity, Rihanna uses models to represent her brand from all different cultures and body types. “Savage X Fenty has something for every mood, every vibe and every BODY” (Savage, 2022)

Figure 1. Savage X Fenty models representing the brand (Fashion United, 2019)

The key people skills that are needed to build a successful brand are inclusivity and communication with their target audience. This will allow brands to hook the public into buying and being interested in their products. A brand needs its own identity, personality and image that its people, its target market can relate to.

References:

Balchandani, A., 2022. The influence of ‘woke’ consumers on fashion. [online] Mckinsey & Company. Available at: <https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-influence-of-woke-consumers-on-fashion> [Accessed 15 October 2022].

CORNER, F., 2022. Why Fashion Matters – Google Arts & Culture. [online] Google Arts & Culture. Available at: <https://artsandculture.google.com/story/why-fashion-matters/_QKS0J-OeT7HIA> [Accessed 15 October 2022].

Moran, G., 2022. Gen Z and Millennials 2022 – Drapers. [online] Drapers. Available at: <https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022> [Accessed 15 October 2022].

Savagex.com. 2022. About Us | SAVAGE X FENTY by Rihanna. [online] Available at: <https://www.savagex.com/featured/aboutus> [Accessed 15 October 2022].

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Planet

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The Phrase ‘Planet’ is one of the four pillars discussed within the fashion industry. It’s an important and key pillar which focuses specifically on sustainability and the benefit of prioritizing the health of the planet. In 1987, the United Nations put together a committee which brought out the Brundtland report which defined sustainability as “Meeting the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.” (Brundtland Report, 1987)

The circular economy is a solution that tackles global challenges such as climate change, waste and pollution. It’s not simply reducing the negative impacts instead it’s representing “a systematic shift that builds long-term resilience and generates business opportunities as well as providing environmental and societal benefits” (Rethinking Fashion Design, 2017) Currently we are using materials from the earth, then making products with them, and finally throwing them away as waste. (Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2017) On the other hand, there are issues within the circular economy such as a lack of environmental awareness and economic barriers and access to financing. 

Figure 1. The Butterfly Diagram (Macarthur Foundation)

Sustainability within the fashion industry is a term where clothes are created and consumed in a way which can be simply sustained as well as protecting the environment. Sustainable fashion focuses on the cultural, environmental and social aspects of fashion (Sustainable fashion Vogue, 2022) The Term “Sustainable fashion” is being frequently used by brands and businesses as people become aware of the major environmental impacts that clothes are creating. Companies are reliable for the future of sustainable fashion as they need to make changes within their production control, and choice of textiles, as well as be mindful of water consumption, pollution and C02 emissions.

In 2015 all United Nations Member states adopted the 2030 agenda for sustainable development, which provides peace for the people and the planet, both now and into the future. (United Nations Sustainable Development Goals, 2015) This includes the 17 sustainable development goals. Goal number 12; responsible consumption and production are most relevant within the fashion industry.

Figure 2. the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (United Nations, 2015)

The Fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions every year, showing the large impact it is making on the environment (Sustainable fashion Vogue, 2022). This is just one example of many issues we face in the industry such as overproduction, greenwashing and excessive water usage. There are many ways to reduce these unsustainable habits such as cutting down on CO2 emissions, recognizing the overproduction scale and reducing waste and pollution within the industry.

Bibliography:

Commission, B., 2022. 1987: Brundtland Report. [online] Are.admin.ch. Available at: <https://www.are.admin.ch/are/en/home/media/publications/sustainable-development/brundtland-report.html> [Accessed 7 October 2022].

Gwilt, A., 2022. Rethinking Fashion Design. 2nd ed. London: basic fashion design, pp.30-49.

Macarthur, E., 2022. Circular economy introduction. [online] Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org. Available at: <https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/topics/circular-economy-introduction/overview> [Accessed 8 October 2022].

Nast, C., 2022. What Does ‘Sustainable Fashion’ Actually Mean?. [online] British Vogue. Available at: <https://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/article/sustainable-fashion> [Accessed 8 October 2022].

United Nations, 2022. THE 17 GOALS | Sustainable Development. [online] Sdgs.un.org. Available at: <https://sdgs.un.org/goals> [Accessed 7 October 2022].

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AcneStudios_Logo

Acne Studios

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Acne Studios is a fashion house that is based in Stockholm. The brand is known for there

multidisciplinary approach. founded in 1996 by creative director Jonny Johansson, The brand specialises in men’s and woman’s ready-to-wear fashion, accessories, footwear and denim. Their collections are defined by attention to detail, with emphasis too tailoring and use of different fabrics.

As a consumer of this brand I highly value there values when it comes down to sustainable fashion. As a brand they have many sustainability goals and aims which are divided into three key areas, ‘Our products’, ‘Our suppliers’ and ‘Our operations’. Their products are high quality that are made from a mixture of carefully considered materials and techniques. They use sustainable materials such as organic cotton, linen fabrics, as well as recycled fabrics such as recycled polyester and nylon.

Acnes fashion philosophy is to produce a “framework for individuality” by making clothing that is both functional that would fit into everyone’s wardrobe.

I aim to shop sustainably in order to reduce the risk that the fashion industry has put on our planet. In conclusion, Acne Studios is my favourite fashion brand as its unique, sustainable as well as being responsible and open about their sourcing and timeline of their garments.

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