Kanchan Rai

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People

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‘People’ is the second pillar of sustainability and also the fundamental reason why fashion exists. People control the speed of fashion trends and the demand for new designs, and like any other industry, it revolves around the consumers. The new generation of buyers are particularly unique as they’re deemed to be more socially and environmentally conscious, regarding issues with racism and climate crisis. This pillar highlights the importance of diversity and representation within the industry and introduces sustainability concepts.

There are more than 7.8 billion people on this planet (World bank, 2021), with generation Z being one of the most prominent groups. Generation Z, also known as Gen Z, are those born between 1995-2010 and are referred to as, “true digital natives” (McKinsey & Company, 2018). Surrounded by advanced technology, this generation is more prone to engage in social media shopping due to the ease and speed of purchasing products. The Drapers consumer report reveals that “60% of both Gen Z and millennials now buy via social”, which is 7% up from last year (Morgan, 2022). 

Figure 1: (Drapers 2022) ‘Have you ever purchased from a fashion brand or retailer by clicking through from a social media post?’

Furthermore, ethics and sustainability are essential factors in whether gen Z support a brand or not. Sustainability refers to meeting the needs of the current generation without compromising the needs of future generations (Brundtland Report 1989). In fashion terms, it means using recycled materials and upcycling garments to reduce waste. Gen Z want brands that promote the concept of a Circular Economy (Green Strategy, 2014), encouraging the idea of keeping resources in use for as long as possible. Around 47% of Gen Z are willing to pay more for ethically made products, compared to only 40.7% from the previous year (Drapers, 2022), implying that gen Z value people over profit.

Figure 2: (Drapers, 2022) ‘I pay more for clothes, accessories and shoes from businesses that I think are sustainable, ethical and/or support equality?’

Diversity is another significant element that brands should endorse. Consumers need to be able to identify with the models and brand ambassadors so they feel included and welcomed by the company. During Paris fashion week 2022, MIU MIU introduced mini skirts of differing lengths and ballet flats for male and female models, aiming to appeal to a more “broad and contemporary audience” (Salamone, 2022). MIU MIU showcased their genderless fashion, combining feminine and masculine elements to deconstruct societal stereotypes on clothing and gender binaries.

Figure 3: Paris Fashion Week 2022

The key people skills required for a fashion brand to be successful are transparency and inclusivity. Consumers appreciate brands that are upfront about their sustainability practices and believe the company’s actions must align with their attitudes. Consumers also value representation within a brand as fashion celebrates creativity among all demographics despite gender, race and background.

References

Brismar, A. (2017) “What is Circular Fashion?” https://greenstrategy.se/circular-fashion-definition/. (Accessed: 15 October 2022)

Francis, T. & Hoefel, F. (2018) ‘True Gen’: Generation Z and its implications for companies. https://www.mckinsey.com/~/media/McKinsey/Industries/Consumer%20Packaged%20Goods/Our%20Insights/True%20Gen%20Generation%20Z%20and%20its%20implications%20for%20companies/Generation-Z-and-its-implication-for-companies.pdf. (Accessed: 11 October 2022)

Moran, G. (2022) Drapers, Gen Z and Millennials 2022 https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022 (Accessed: 15 October 2022)

Salamone, L. (2022) “The new genderless of Miu Miu.” nss magazine,  https://www.nssmag.com/en/fashion/29205/menswear-miu-miu. (Accessed: 15 October 2022)

The World Bank (2021) World Bank Data, https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/SP.POP.TOTL. (Accessed: 15 October 2022)

United Nations Bruntland Commission (1989) “Our Common Future: Report of the World Commission on Environment and Development.” http://www.un-documents.net/our-common-future.pdf. (Accessed: 15 October 2022)

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A favourite fashion brand: Coco Chanel

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“Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening“

– Coco Chanel

Gabrielle Chanel was one of the most famous and influential fashion designers during the 20th century. She is a prominent role model in fashion history, well known for her signature style of simple elegance and comfort that still captivates the hearts of many people today. I choose Chanel as my favourite fashion brand because it embraces the simplicity of fashion while still being stylish and embodies a strong feminine flair with masculine accents. 

Chanel was founded in 1910 when women’s clothes weren’t designed to be practical and consisted of extravagant dresses and tight corsets. Chanel was not a fan of this style as it restricted the movement of women and therefore introduced the jersey material in 1913. Jersey is a stretchy fabric that was commonly used for men’s underwear and hence was far from the norm of the 1900s as it was viewed to be cheap masculine material. Despite this, Chanel’s daring confidence allowed her to be the first to incorporate both comfort and style into women’s fashion by creating sportswear, changing the trends of that era.

Furthermore, when I discovered Chanel I believed it to be a very sophisticated brand due to its use of high-quality and durable fibres such as tweed and yarn. Tweed especially reinforces the luxurious aesthetic of Chanel as it is an expensive rich material. Surprisingly at that time, tweed was a traditional masculine fabric, however in 1924 when she proposed her classic tweed suits, it offered a new style of attire for women. Additionally, the little black dress was popularised in 1926 and was only available in black so being stylish was easier and simpler.

Spring 1993 Ready-to-Wear Collection

I particularly adore the spring 1993 collection which I think perfectly portrays the minimal yet chic elegance that is associated with Chanel. I appreciate that she accompanies the outfits with many accessories, such as grand hats, gloves, bows and gold chains that re-establish femininity in her work.

Her success continues to flourish throughout her fragrance line with Chanel no.5 being the signature scent worldwide. I admire this aspect of Chanel where she broadens her beautiful designs to other industries such as beauty, fragrance and fine jewellery. Therefore, I look up to her not only as a respected fashion designer but also as a respected businesswoman. I believe Chanel to be such a classic luxury brand that has influenced many people and trends to this day and its timeless designs will never be out of style.

Citations

  1. Trochu, Eugénie. “Gabrielle Chanel’s signature pieces, explained by a specialist.” Vogue, 21 October 2020, https://www.vogue.fr/fashion/article/gabrielle-chanel-signature-pieces-history-anecdotes Accessed 4 October 2022.
  2. Sert, José Maria. “Gabrielle Chanel, the founder of CHANEL | CHANEL.” Chanel, https://www.chanel.com/gb/about-chanel/the-founder Accessed 4 October 2022.
  3. McDowell, Colin. “Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971) | BoF.” The Business of Fashion, 27 November 2015, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/gabrielle-coco-chanel-1883-1971/ Accessed 5 October 2022.
  4. Krick, Jessa. “Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883–1971) and the House of Chanel.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, October 2004, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm Accessed 5 October 2022.

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