Cecilie Farrant

A brand’s purpose relates to their values and core reasoning for existence beyond making a profit. The purpose pillar also relates to the term wellbeing, especially eudaimonic wellbeing fundamentally meaning the do-good factor. For example, the brand tentree plant a tree for every item they sell, promoting the brands values of sustainability and their overall purpose.

Brand philosophy is important as it helps individual brands differentiate itself from others and be unique in order to flourish, helping gain customer loyalty and repeat business. Without it brands will just be seen as the same and have no unique purpose in existing. A brand philosophy is made up of a mission, vision and the brands values. A brands mission is why the business exists, for example Nudie Jeans which is Swedish based ‘employs a variety of approaches to reduce the environmental and social impacts of its products, from making the production processes of a product transparent to providing advice and services that help consumers extend the life of their Judie jeans’ (Gwilt, A. 2014). This is particularly important especially due to the fact it takes up to 1,800 gallons of water to grow enough cotton to produce a pair of jeans (Barbara and Twitter, 2018). A brand vision is where they see their selves in the future and their ambitions. Having a vision can enable a brand to grow, not just in terms of size but it may help them to grow in terms of how they operate or how they contribute to the environment and being sustainable. Lastly a brands value proposition is what a business believes is important. Strong value proposition is all about the customer’s needs, ‘it outlines the benefits they will receive when buying your product or service. A good value proposition is about making the connection between customer needs and the seller’s solutions’ (Thacker, 2019).

A sharing economy can occur in any industry, from transport, for example uber, to clothing such as renting between individuals. An example of a clothing renting brand is Girl Meets Dress, where you can hire dress for an occasion and send it back afterwards, contributing to a more sustainable circular economy and limiting fast fashion, especially when people will order a dress for an occasion and never wear it again. 

Brands mainly communicate their purpose to gen z through social media as it influences consumer behaviour especially to the younger generation who use social media the most. Brands will collab with popular influencers in order to promote their clothing as they know gen z will be inspired by the outfits their favourite influencers are wearing. ‘97% of Gen Z consumers say they now use social media as their top source of shopping inspiration’ (Kastenholz,2021). 

Reference list

Barbara, U.S. and Twitter, T. (2018). How Many Gallons of Water Does It Take to Make . . . [online] Treehugger. Available at: https://www.treehugger.com/how-many-gallons-of-water-does-it-take-to-make-4858491.

Gwilt, A. (2020). A practical guide to sustainable fashion. London: Bloomsbury Publishing.

Kastenholz, C. (2021). Council Post: Gen Z And The Rise Of Social Commerce. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2021/05/17/gen-z-and-the-rise-of-social-commerce/?sh=483a140251d0 [Accessed 29 Oct. 2022].

Thacker, M. (2019). Council Post: How To Create A Successful Value Proposition. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbescoachescouncil/2019/07/15/how-to-create-a-successful-value-proposition/?sh=7e36c0e025d5 [Accessed 29 Oct. 2022].

user (2018). Here’s Where We Plant Your Trees. [online] THE ENVIRONMENTOR. Available at: https://blog.tentree.com/where-do-we-plant-your-trees-these-are-the-countries-where-we-plant/ [Accessed 29 Oct. 2022].

Profit is one of the fashion business pillars, relating mainly to the financial aspect of the fashion industry. The fashion industry is key contributor towards a healthy economy, ‘if it we’re ranked alongside individual countries GDP the global fashion industry would represent the seventh largest economy in the world’ (Fashion United, 2022). It’s difficult to measure the size of the fashion industry, particularly due to the fact how rapidly the industry changes, ‘about 7% of companies left the market entirely, either due to financial distress or because they we’re bought by rivals’ (McKinsey & Company,2021), along with ‘3,000billion textile and garment companies are entering the market daily’ (Vilaça, J.,2021)

There are multiple sectors within the fashion industry, such as manufacturing, distributing and retailing. Advancements on technology has enabled many start-up brands and new production cycles. For example, ‘mass-market players will begin to follow suit, aiming to respond more rapidly to trends and consumer demand. The result is likely to be a rise in just-in-time-production, reduced levels of overstock and an increase in the importance of small-batch production cycles’(McKinsey & Company,2021). Therefore, technology and shifting consumer needs has enabled quicker, more efficient production and developments in understanding consumer behaviour for the manufacturing sector of the fashion industry. However, ‘According to the Council for Textile Recycling (CTR), the average American throws away 70 pounds of apparel products per year’ (Hethorn and Ulasewicz, 2015), showing a linear waste economy when a circular economy is needed to be more sustainable and environmentally conscious.

The recent pandemic has created instability within the economy along with major problems for certain businesses, for example some brands we’re not able to remain competitive during these times and lost their spot in the industry, forcing them to close down such as Topshop. A brand can remain competitive in uncertain economic times by focusing on their existing customers and keeping their brand loyalty towards them, communicating with customers/clients regularly. ‘There are a ton of studies that show the higher cost of acquiring a new customer relative to nurturing a current relationship’ (Clausen, E. 2020).

Creative directors bridge the gap between creativity and commerce through fashion shows/ exhibitions. For example, the Moschino spring/summer 2021 show, Jeremy Scott, the creative director fitted miniature dresses on mannequins 2 feet tall ‘the exhibition featured 237 looks, opening at The Louvre in Pairs and raising millions of francs for war relief’, showing by being creative and doing something unique can increase a brands profit or in the case of this show raise more money. ‘The exhibit eventually went on to tour the world and is currently part of the Maryhill museum of arts collection’ (Meyer, M. 2022).

Reference list

Amed, I., Balchandani, A., Beltrami, M., Berg, A., Hedrich, S. and Rölkens, F. (2019). Fashion on demand. [online] McKinsey & Company. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-demand.

Clausen, E. (2020). Council Post: Marketing Rules To Follow During Uncertain Economic Times. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesagencycouncil/2020/04/03/marketing-rules-to-follow-during-uncertain-economic-times/?sh=75e463a4a36e [Accessed 24 Oct. 2022].

Fashion United (2022). Global Fashion Industry Statistics. [online] fashionunited.com. Available at: https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion-industry-statistics.

Hethorn, J. and Ulasewicz, C. (2015). Sustainable fashion : what’s next? : a conversation about issues, practices and possibilities. New York: Bloomsbury, Fairchild Books, An Imprint Of Bloomsbury Publishing Inc.‌

McKinsey & Company (2021). The State of Fashion 2022: In search of promise in perilous times | McKinsey. [online] McKinsey. Available at: https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/state-of-fashion.

Meyer, M. (2022). 29 BEST Fashion Shows Of All Times (Up To 2022). [online] the VOU. Available at: https://thevou.com/fashion/fashion-shows/#moschino-2021 [Accessed 24 Oct. 2022].

Vilaça, J. (2021). Fashion Industry Statistics: The 4th Biggest Sector Is More Than Clothing. [online] Fashinnovation. Available at: https://fashinnovation.nyc/fashion-industry-statistics/.

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People is one of the four pillars of sustainability at fashion business school. People are the focus of every organisation whether they are the designer, the model, the consumer or the seller, therefore they are crucial in the fashion industry.

Members of generation Z are born ‘from 1995 to 2010’ (Francis and Hoefel, 2018) and have been born with the internet and phones right into their hands. Due to gen z being ‘the first to grow up as digital natives, surrounded by technology and the internet for their entire lives’ (Moran), as consumers they are most likely to shop via the internet. A Drapers report on gen z states that over 40% of gen z prefer to shop online due to the convenience of it and 45% like being able to shop around online for the best price (Drapers). Social media is also a huge influence on gen z and how easy it makes it to follow trends and styles. Majority of Gen Z when shopping for clothes care about the environment and whether the clothes were made sustainably in suitable working conditions. Preloved clothes are also popular with gen z, buying through the likes of Depop or Vinted, supported by another Drapers survey ’47.4% of both gen z and millennial age groups say they are willing to pay more for sustainable and ethically made items, compared with 40.7% in 2021’ (Moran). Therefore, when a brand is aiming to attract Gen Z, they must consider whether their values are correct and if they are being sustainable and treating their workers right. ‘They place high importance on brand ethics and corporate responsibility, even more so than millennials’ (Henry Bewicke). ‘The core of Gen z is the idea of manifesting individual identity. Consumption therefore becomes a means of self-expression’ (Francis and Hoefel,2018), therefore if brands are trying to attract gen Z, they must think about how individual their garments are and whether they differ from the norms and are unique for people to express themselves in.

An example of a brand which has responded to diversity is HARA the label, founded by Allie Cameron. ‘She was travelling in India when she first learned and saw with her own eyes, the social and environmental impacts of the fashion (Dupez Perez, 2019). The brands mission is to ‘bring change and awareness to the human and environmental issues within the fashion industry’. Hara has been using diverse women in its photoshoots and has done from the first day. The models representing the brands website all have different body types and are from different cultures. 

HARA the label, (ecowarriorprincess.net)

The key people skills needed for a fashion brand to be successful, would be the willingness to change, and follow new values. Being ethical not only helps save the planet but is also top of Gen Zs list when buying clothing. However, they must use sustainability and diversity as actual values, not just buzzwords or trends in order to attract customers.

Works Cited

Bewicke, Henry. “Gen Z Consumer Behavior: What You Need to Know | Talon.One.” Www.talon.one, 7 May 2021, www.talon.one/blog/gen-z-consumer-behavior-what-you-need-to-know.

Dudez Perez. “8 Ethical Fashion Brands Celebrating Diversity, Inclusivity and Body Positivity.” Ecowarriorprincess.net, 30 Mar. 2019, ecowarriorprincess.net/2019/03/8-ethical-fashion-brands-diversity-inclusivity-body-positivity/.

Francis, Tracy, and Fernanda Hoefel. ““True Gen”: Generation Z and Its Implications for Companies.” McKinsey & Company, 12 Nov. 2018, www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/true-gen-generation-z-and-its-implications-for-companies.

Moran, Graeme. “Gen Z and Millennials 2022.” Drapers, 2022, www.drapersonline.com/guides/gen-z-and-millennials-2022.

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Planet is one of the four pillars of sustainability at fashion business school, focusing on environmental sustainability. With the fashion industry being one of the most powerful and a complex chain interconnecting everything from farmers to transport to retail, makes it difficult for brands to act sustainably especially when they don’t know their earlier stages of the manufacturing chain.

Sustainability in relation to fashion can be defined as ‘meeting the needs of the present generation without compromising the ability of our future generations to meet their needs’ (Brundtland report 1987).  Sustainability is about making the world a better place without destroying the opportunities for the future generations. Within sustainability there are three main pillars, people, planet and profit, also known as the social, economic and environmental pillars (John Elkington’s triple bottom line). The environmental pillar relates most to ‘planet’ as it involves taking care of resources, planet and ecosystems. Sustainability in fashion means an education and understanding of how the fashion industry negatively impacts the environment and our planet. For example, fashion production makes up 10% of the carbon emissions produced by humanity (UNECE,2018) along with 93 billion cubic metres of water is used by the fashion industry annually, which is the amount to feed five million people every year (UNCTAD, 2020). Consumers and businesses having an awareness or understanding of these facts could contribute to the first steps in resolving the problems created by the fashion industry and discovering opportunities to act responsibly in order to save the planet.

The circular economy is thought to be an alternative to a traditional linear economy of making, using and disposing of garments, and instead forming a regenerative system to keep clothes in use. The model is often described as ‘a system where all materials are infinitely recyclable or biodegradable’ (Gwilt.A 2020). A circular economy has the key principles of keeping products and materials in use, using renewable and safe materials and designing out waste and pollution. As a garment comes to the end of its life and is perhaps broken or been worn out, rather than throwing it away, the item could be repaired, reused or even recycled into another garment, overall reducing waste and creating a more sustainable and environmentally friendly system. 

There are 17 sustainable development goals, adopted by the United Nations. The 17 SDGs outline 169 targets to be met by 2030 (Gwilt A, 2020). The 14^th goal, life below water, majorly supported by the environmental pillar, aims to ‘conserve and sustainably use the oceans, seas and marine resources for sustainable development’ (globalgoals.org). The fashion industry negatively impacts sea life and ‘life below water’ due to the resources, processes and how garments are used. For example, ‘synthetic textiles like polyester shed tiny pieces of plastic with every wash and wear. These plastic particles, called microplastics, pollute the oceans’ (Bloomberg.com). Therefore, not only how the fashion industry manufactures garments but also how consumers use them, can have a major impact on the planet and with the United Nations spreading awareness of the 14^th goal, the fashion industry can adapt the way they do things to reduce the negative impacts caused.

Reference list

Geneva Environment Network (2021). Environmental Sustainability in the Fashion Industry. [online] www.genevaenvironmentnetwork.org. Available at: https://www.genevaenvironmentnetwork.org/resources/updates/sustainable-fashion/.

United Nations (2022). Sustainability | United Nations. United Nations. [online] Available at: https://www.un.org/en/academic-impact/sustainability.

Gwilt, A. and ProQuest (Firm) (2020). A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. Second edition ed. [online] Library Catalog (Koha). London ; New York, NY: Bloomsbury Visual Arts. Available at: https://libsearch.arts.ac.uk/cgi-bin/koha/opac-detail.pl?biblionumber=1452042&query_desc= [Accessed 10 Oct. 2022].

United Nations (2021). Goal 14 | Department of Economic and Social Affairs. [online] sdgs.un.org. Available at: https://sdgs.un.org/goals/goal14.

Dottle, R. and Gu, J. (2022). The Global Glut of Clothing Is an Environmental Crisis. [online] www.bloomberg.com. Available at: https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmental-impact/?leadSource=uverify%20wall.

McFall-Johnsen, M. (2019). The fashion industry emits more carbon than international flights and maritime shipping combined. Here are the biggest ways it impacts the planet. [online] Business Insider. Available at: https://www.businessinsider.com/fast-fashion-environmental-impact-pollution-emissions-waste-water-2019-10?IR=T.

The British fashion retailer Allsaints was founded in 1994 and is headquartered in London, owned by Lion Capital since 2011. The brand sells womenswear, menswear, footwear, and accessories, being recognisable for their neutral colours and unique prints along with being known as ‘edgy’ and with a ‘modern rock n’ roll style’. Kait Bolonagaro and Stuart Trevor, the founders who are now married, both had a common interest in vintage clothing and classic rock music, the inspiration for their brand Allsaints. The first Allsaints shop in London initially attracted customers with its unique store layout and vintage sewing machines on the walls and windows of it’s store. 

The layout of the store and the vintage sewing machines caught my eye when I was younger as I would have to sit in the shop for hours waiting for my parents to almost try on every item of clothing on display with nothing to do except attempt to make the vintage sewing machines work. I think the nostalgic feeling of the shop Allsaints and it being a family favourite is what makes the brand a favourite of mine, as I grew up with it and seeing every item of clothing my family would wear being Allsaints.

The brand is also working with multiple companies in order to make incremental change and sustainable goals as they know they have a responsibility towards the planet and the people who are involved in the process, such as the leather working group, representing responsible leather sourcing to the industry.