Planet
One of the four pillars discussed within the Fashion Business context is ‘Planet’. The pillar explores the “huge environmental impact” (Creagh, 2018) of the fashion industry’s processes, and the subsequent need for sustainability to avoid irreversible damage. Sustainability is defined by the United Nations Brundtland Commission as “meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs” (United Nations, 1987). Since the emergence of environmentalism in 1960s youth (Hethorn & Ulasewicz, 2015), consumers’ demand for sustainable fashion is growing, driving designers to consider a garment’s life cycle (Gwilt, 2020).
A circular economy aims to reduce waste and pollution by emphasising the continuous flow of materials back into the planet (Condenast.com, 2020). The Ellen MacArthur foundation is a central organisation that strives to “accelerate the transition to the circular economy” by representing the long-term benefits of the shift, such as the butterfly diagram (seen above) (2010). It demonstrates that, although critics have questioned the inevitable end to recycling due to degradation of certain materials (Stanislaus, 2018), the process of regeneration on a large range of materials could outweigh the disadvantage of the small number of non-recyclable materials.
Sustainable fashion is a process of shifting current ideology and practices to accommodate future prosperity and wellbeing for people and the environment (Condenast.com, 2020). The United Nations Environmental Program’s (UNEP) three key pillars of sustainability; economic, societal, and environmental; underpin the motives of sustainable fashion (2019). Designers must understand the phases in the life cycle of the garment to reduce their negative environmental and social impacts by implementing appropriate sustainable design strategies (Gwilt, 2020).
The 12th Sustainable Development Goal (SDG), Responsible Production and Consumption, is “about doing more and better with less” to preserve the already degraded resources and environment (United Nations, 2020). This SDG heavily correlates with the fashion industry due to the increase in fast fashion, which produces 92 million tonnes of textiles waste per year, is responsible for 20% of global wastewater and produces twice the amount of clothing today than in 2000 (Igini, 2022). While some progress can be seen to reduce overproduction in the fashion industry, such as the increase in made-to-order independent brand shopping through Instagram and TikTok (Gwilt, 2020), many larger companies continue “greenwashing” their marketing to divert attention from their unethical work practices. Zara’s recent line of “sustainable fashion” diverts attention from their crisis of overconsumption, evident in their production of 26 collections annually (Leach, 2022).
Fashion must shift to a demand-driven model which would reduce its carbon footprint of 84% (Morgan, 2022). As the environmental crisis is worsening, the responsibility lies on not only the consumer, but also the designer to reduce their levels of waste and create a sustainable future.
Resources
Condenast.com (2020) Condé Nast – Glossary. Routledge. Available at: https://www.condenast.com/glossary/key-elements-of-fashion-and-sustainability/circular-economy. (Accessed: October 8, 2022).
EllenMacArthurFoundation.org (2010) Circular economy introduction, How to Build a Circular Economy. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/jobs-further-information. (Accessed: October 8, 2022).
Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2019) The Butterfly Diagram: Visualising the circular economy, The Butterfly Diagram: Visualising the Circular Economy. Ellen MacArthur Foundation. Available at: https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/circular-economy-diagram (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
Gelles, D. (2022) Billionaire no more: Patagonia founder gives away the company, The New York Times. The New York Times Company. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2022/09/14/climate/patagonia-climate-philanthropy-chouinard.html. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
Gwilt, A. (2020) “Chapter 2,” in Practical guide to sustainable fashion. London: Fairchild Books, pp. 24–25.
Hethorn, J., & Ulasewicz, C. (eds). (2015). “Chapter 1,” in Sustainable Fashion: What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities. New York: Bloomsbury, pp. 22-26.
Igini, M. (2022) 10 stunning fast fashion waste statistics, Earth.Org. Earth.Org. Available at: https://earth.org/statistics-about-fast-fashion-waste/. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
Leach, F. (2022) View: Don’t be fooled by Zara’s new ‘carbon emissions’ collection, EuroNews. Alpac Capital. Available at: https://www.euronews.com/green/2022/06/26/clothes-made-from-carbon-emissions-why-zaras-new-line-is-just-more-greenwashing. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
Stanislaus, M. (2018) Barriers to a circular economy: 5 reasons the World Wastes so much stuff (and why it’s not just the consumer’s fault), World Resources Institute. WRI. Available at: https://www.wri.org/insights/barriers-circular-economy-5-reasons-world-wastes-so-much-stuff-and-why-its-not-just. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
Moran, G. (2022). Collaborating for Change: Sustainability Report 2022, Drapers. Ascential. Available at: https://www.drapersonline.com/guides/collaborating-for-change-sustainability-report-2022 (Accessed: October 7, 2022)
UK Parliament (2018). Sustainability of the Fashion Industry Inquiry launched. UK Parliament. House of Commons. Available at: https://committees.parliament.uk/committee/62/environmental-audit-committee/news/100131/sustainability-of-the-fashion-industry-inquiry-launched/ (Accessed: October 8, 2022).
UNEP (2019) Sustainable development | economic and social council, United Nations. United Nations. Available at: https://www.un.org/ecosoc/en/sustainable-development#:~:text=ECOSOC%20operates%20at%20the%20centre,%E2%80%94economic%2C%20social%20and%20environmental. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
United Nations (2020) Sustainable consumption and production, United Nations. Department of Global Communications. Available at: https://www.un.org/sustainabledevelopment/sustainable-consumption-production/. (Accessed: October 9, 2022).
United Nations (1987) Sustainability, United Nations. Department of Global Communications. Available at: https://www.un.org/en/academic-impact/sustainability. (Accessed: October 8, 2022).